OLD AND TRULY GOLD
With vintage styles back in picture, it’s time to get those old beauties out of their boxes, dust a new twist and flaunt. How? We tell you all on how to get the old into the new
Doesn’t matter whether you grow in the hilly regions of the north, the plains of central India or the beaches of South, the one thing that binds women across is their undying love and fascination for gold. A piece of shiny metal is all a woman needs to glow, and the older it’s, the more treasured the piece is, the better it is.Let’s face it, old jewellery may have been called oldfashioned, heavy and too gaudy by many, but when it comes to timeless beauty in jewellery, there is nothing that can beat the charm of this old world style. In fact, says Sunil Jindal, managing director, SRS Jewells, “There is no investment like old, gold jewellery that has been passed on from generation to generation – and by ‘investment’ we do not only mean the quality of gold, but also the design element. Even with the recent technology and latest machines, the old world karigari (designs) are hard to emulate. This has been one of the major factor for the revival of old jewellery styles and designs in the recent past.”
Agrees Asawari Dilip Lagu, director,Lagu Bandhu Motiwale Pvt. Ltd. The brand as a matter of fact is now working towards providing special services that not only ensure that your old ‘precious’ pieces are safeguarded against harm, but also redesigned to suit the modern day needs of jewellery – that is lightweight and yet elegant and regal. You see, says Asawari, “The other reason for people preferring old style jewellery during Dassera and such is also the emotional factor associated with an old or an old style –look alike piece. In India especially, a piece of old jewellery isn’t considered just stridhan (a wife’s wealth), but one that is saved and treasured for generation also has a bit of emotional connection. It’s a feeling of gratitude and connection that most of the pieces offer that is so alluring.” However, one cannot deny the ‘nov elty’ that old jewellery pieces exude. “Mostly an heirloom piece or vintage jewellery is one of the kind. It’s rare that you would find something similar to the one you have. This was because ornaments back then were mostly handmade, which made it to difficult to duplicate a design as simple as a chain,” says Vinita Bakshi, Founder, Aambra Foundation, an NGO dedicated to educating people on the business of gold selling and buying. The fact that it is also an excellent investment because of the gold – which was usually between 22 and 24 karat—quality is another lure. However, adds Sunil, “Given the sentimental values that Indians associated with gold jewellery that latter is of a lesser consequence. No one buys gold thinking of selling it first, though it’s still an advisable investment and sound asset to keep.” Agrees jewellery expert Vinita, though she feels that the market of selling of old jewellery in India is still pretty much organized. “Normally an heirlooms and traditional jewellery piece will fetch you good money only if the quality of the work and gold used is of a certain standard. And this could vary greatly depending upon the region the ornament is made, and the ratio of alloy used. Internationally only vintage jewellery – that’s jewellery older than 100 years – and special editions have a resale value.” “Yet another important factor that determines the resale value of such jewellery pieces is also the condition – how well has the jewellery been stored and maintained,” adds Avinash Pahuja, director, Raia, ORO. Also, given that traditional ornaments are an occasional wear, people often prefer to safeguard it in a locker till such time that they can be used, which, says Avinash, isn’t always ideal for the longevity and shine of the ornament. This brings us to the two important query: One, what does one do with such old pieces, unless and until they are bought anew and light? And two, how does one maintain the shine, forever? While experts agree on the prospect of tweaking the old designs into more wearable pattern, the changing may differ according to the design and the ratio of gold and alloy used. Like, explains Vinita, “A heavy necklace can have a detachable pendant which can be worn with a simple chain later on, but ensure that the gold used carries the official BIS Hallmark. This ensures the purity of gold used, and the re-salability too.” Also , adds Avinash, “Try matching the quality of gold used to make the new jewellery, the same applies for the ratio of the alloy use. So use the old gold to give it a new twist.” If you are wondering which part of an old favourite can you sacrifice then, says Asawari, “A good option is to risk the chains instead of the intrinsically designed pendant and delicate patterns on the jewellery. The reason is that while most chain designs can be replicated, minute detailing is something that cannot be done with machines. Also, avoid using stones on an old design, if not used earlier, as it would not give the same finesse.” Once decided on the design and a change, which jewellers will be happy to help, get the old jewellery
evaluated either by the Gold Council or using the machine evaluation. This, says Sunil, is a more effective way of determining the gold’s worth rather than the traditional tool check. One caution: start with smaller pieces to know the jeweller’s ability.”
As for the storing, says experts, “Store each piece individually in soft cotton to avoid any kind of damage. If stored in a locker, change the box every three months. Use selvet, a special cloth to clean jewellery with lukewarm water and mild washing soap. And last not the least, wear often.” After jewellery in the box is much like a book – out of sight, out of mind.
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